Sunday, March 2, 2008

March

March 1, 2008

I am woefully behind. Never did write anything during Feb of this year.

I left off at the end of January. Not a month with a great ending. We both got bad colds which included ear infections and bronchitis . Went to the doctor (22 euros a visit- total bill. The copay is 1 euro) and came away with the traditional french shopping sack of drugs. So Keith and I just sat around; I watched some movies, he played on the computer. It is nice not to have to work when you do not fell up to it!

We did have to get ready for the trip though. We both spent minimal time packing, but we had more than enough cloths. Did forget the tour guide book though!

We also just happened to squeeze in a wine tasting with Marie Therese. She has a new blog site too at: http://www.vinsbourgone.blogspot.com where she mentions our wine tasting visit. It is in French however. We have another wine tasting with her this coming week.

I did want to mention that Keith did finish a glass lampshade (Tiffany style). It is wonderful.

Desk Lamp by Keith [better photo next time]


Then my photo club has an exhibit this next weekend. I have a couple of photos in the exhibit, of course.

Black and White

Grand Canyon



If interested, here is another link; Sue's 2008 photo calendar

View Photo CALENDAR

Then there is an actual calendar. I am experimenting with the use of this calendar. Not sure how well it works and if I will keep it up, but for now here is the address. Sue's Actual Calendar


Now on to the vacation.

SYRACUSE (or Siracusa )

(photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/sue.klein/Syracuse)

“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times”. We were still very tired from our colds, and Keith brought along a gastro virus. Kind as he is, he shared it with me. It was not that bad, but we stayed and explored the island of Ortygia, rather than some long voyages by bus into the mountains. It was a little cold too. Wore a coat the whole time. In spite of minor problems, we had a wonderful time.

It is hard to recount this trip without tossing in some facts of history. I hope it is not too boring!

To start our voyage, we took a train from Gevrey to Lyon on Friday and spent the afternoon touring Lyon. That night we stayed at a hotel near the airport.

On Saturday we flew from Lyon to Milan, then Milan to Catania, Sicily (about 65km north of Syracuse). We arrived at the apartment at about 6pm and the proprietor (Massimo) was there to greet us, explain everything and hand us the keys.

We stayed in a part of Syracuse known as Ortygia. We had rented a small apartment for our two week stay. Ortygia is an island and is part of the city of Syracuse. [Ancient Syracuse, includes the nucleus of the city’s foundation as Ortygia by Greeks from Corinth in the 8th century B.C. The site of the city, which Cicero described as “the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of all”]

.

Our apartment was small, an open room that was living room, dining room and kitchen. The bed was above, loft style. It was unusually cold when we arrived, and the place was heated by a plug in radiator. I am sure it had been turned on just before our arrival!

After Massimo left, we had to go out and find someplace to buy some food, Massimo had stated that stores would be closed on Sunday. There are several small grocers on Ortygia. The stores are probably about 30 feet by 40 feet and packed with an amazing amount of essentials. So we quickly bought supplies, deposited them back to the apartment and went in search of a restaurant for dinner.

We found a pizza place not far from the Piazza Archimede It was like our experience in Naples. All the workers shouting back and forth to each other, the place seems to be in chaos, but everything arrives at the table hot and delicious. A young American couple were at the table next to us and were in cultural shock. She asked if we spoke English and then asked about the “chaos”. The place was turning away people about ½ hour after we arrived.

There is a different rhythm to life in the south. We found out early Monday morning that work starts at 7am! The road outside of the apartment was under construction. A jack hammer outside the window has a tendency to wake one up. The street workers worked straight through to 2pm and then were gone for the day. An attached apartment in back of us was also under construction, so we had noise from both sides. So much for sleeping in.

Stores close during the afternoon (often from 1pm to 5pm) and reopen in the late afternoon and stay open until 8pm.

Massimo had told us that there was an outdoor market daily on the island, and we went almost every day. The vegetables were fresh and wonderful, even the tomatoes (tomatoes and mozzarella buffalo). It is also orange season, and there were oranges everywhere for sale. Prices were low too, oranges were 0.50 euros a kilo, and all the vegetables were cheap too. We could not believe how low our daily costs were. Going to the market in the morning after breakfast became part of our routine. We bought some of the local goodies (marinated onions, marinated peppers, olives, mozzarella, other cheeses, sausage…. ) from Mario. He would give us a tasted of something, and of course we would buy it.

The island of Ortygia is a warren of small very ancient streets. Many of the streets are very narrow and turn at right angles. Motorcycles can still navigate these streets however, and suddenly there would be one behind us. And as for the streets without right angle turns, small cars came down these (they have no choice) and we had to stand in a doorway to let them pass. We spent lots of time exploring the little streets of Ortygia.

On the island is the Cathedral (Duomo). It was thought that first it was a local worship place, then the Romans built a Temple to Athena over it in the year 480 BC. In the 7th century it was bricked up and converted into a catholic church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. After a major earthquake in 1693, it was redone with the Baroque façade. In 1927, restorations were done to show off the ancient roots (pillars) of this building.

We also visited the archeology museum in the main part of Syracuse. It was about ½ hour walk from the apartment. It is very interesting museum, laid out by the inhabitants chronologically. The time frame of things there is incredible; objects from the 10th century BC.

Also in Syracuse is the Greek theater. “With a diameter of 138m/453ft and 61 rows of seats hewn out of the rock and providing places for some 15,000 spectators, it is one of the largest theaters in the whole of the ancient Greek Empire. 470 BC” It was changed a few times, and the romans did some major alterations. However, to sit there in the theater that is about 2,500 years old and think of the plays that were performed. Greek plays are still performed during the summer months.

Archimedes was a native son of Ortygia. Due to his fame, one finds things all over named after him; even a pizza restaurant. He had been buried in Syracuse, but the grave was robbed centuries ago. “Wikipedia : Archimedes of Syracuse (c. 287 BC – c. 212 BC) was a mathematician, physicist, engineer, inventor and astromomer. Archimedes is considered to be one of the greatest mathematicians of all time.”

We found the island of Ortygia interesting and enjoyed exploring it. There is renovation everywhere, practically down every street. On the other hand, the actual city of Syracuse is not all that pretty. It is mostly older buildings (not ancient) that look their age. There are lots of concrete apartment buildings. Also some construction going on, a major street was being paved with stones and the park was under complete renovation. Still the city overall has a tossed together feel to it.

We rented a car for two days. Day one we went south, all the way to the most southern tip of Sicily. We had a lunch on the patio overlooking the ocean at Porto Paulo. Heading back north a little we found the Vendicari Nature Reserve (quiet by accident). It is a wonderful stretch of beach with migratory birds. They have a few “duck blinds” where you can watch the birds. We heard lots of noise and wondered what was around the corner. As we turned the corner there was another duck blind. We went inside and low and behold, flamingos; hundreds of flamingos! Unfortunately the blind is not the close and the sun was behind the birds. So my photos are not spectacular. However, I personally was very excited, such a marvelous site. It was a mostly sunny day, and we could also see Etna. Etna is about 70km north of Syracuse. It is rare that one can see the top of Etna.

The second day with the car we went somewhat north to see the ruins of Magara Hyblaea. It was a Greek settlement that was founded around 700BC. Megara Hyblaea is famed as the birthplace of the comic poet Epicharmos (about 550-460 B.C.). This area is full of oil refineries; so in the midst of refineries and oil tankers lies this archaeological ruins of a Greek city. It was not easy to find, but we did find it. The caretaker of this park let us in free, we were the only ones there that day.

After our archaeological tour, Keith headed west. Sue had a slight melt down at one point. We entered the mountainous region. Keith took the road, not a big road that got smaller and smaller and higher and higher. Around it went with sheer drop offs on my side. Finally we reached the village, and I swear that the car was at 70 degree angle! There was no place to park and the road through town was one lane. Keith wondered if we should park and walk around. Park where, on the side of the cliff!! So Keith found the road out of town. The road down actually was wider (two full car widths) and soon met up with a real road, so it was not bad at all. The countryside was indeed beautiful, unfortunately there was not place to stop and both of my hands were grasped tightly on the “oh god” handles!! The hillsides were green and terraced.

We tried another noted village, not quiet as high. However again there was a parking problem. Have to go someday by train or bus.

Keith went by train to Ragusa one day (I did not feel real well). He took the train up and the had intended to take the bus back. When we bought bus tickets (city bus tickets) the woman had explained that the train ride although slow, was beautiful. And indeed Keith said it was. He was glad that I had not gone because the train had to stop at Modica due to some track work. There was a bus that continued to Ragusa. In typical Sicily fashion, the bus driver drove while talking to his friends, gesticulating with his hands, only to take the wheel at the last moment to turn the corners. It was some trip up. Happily the track was open for his return trip. As a train buff he was very happy with his train trip into the mountains. He also said that Ragusa is a very pretty city. Have to see it next time.

That about sums up our wonderful trip. We wanted the chance to see what it would be like to live in Italy, and it was a great experience. Our trip to Sicily 7 years ago was a fast tour by car of the island, only six days. By being on the move constantly, one does not get the sense of the country. This time we did and found it enjoyable.

The same sequence, only reverse for our journey home. We flew from Catania to Milan, and then Milan to Lyon. Took the train from Lyon to Gevrey (we have more train stops in Gevrey now). It was 12 hours from door to door.

Ah the recipe of the month. I combined some of the Sicily experience and made this rice dish up this last week.


Lemon Rice


INGREDIENTS

  • 2 ripe lemons -1/4 cup max ;see NOTE BELOW

  • 1 leek

  • 1 cup basmati rice

  • 2 TBS olive oil

  • Cut the leek in to circles or half circles. Put the oil in the pan and sauté the leek. When transparent,add 1 cup of rice to the pan and lemon as follows.

    Add the zest of one lemon(optional). Squeeze the juice of the two lemons into a measuring cup and then fill with water to the 2 cup level(directions on my rice is 1 cup of rice to 2 cups water).

    Stir all together and cook the rice per package instructions.

    This rice has a nice lemon tang, and should go well with chicken or fish.

    NOTE: I made it the first time with 2 lemons. Second time one large, but it was too strong. It may depend on the ripeness of the lemon, but be careful not to put too much.

    Tuesday, January 22, 2008

    January 2008

    HAPPY NEW YEAR

    I probably should take this month in chronological order. Maybe I can remember what we have done since I last wrote my journal.

    Starting back with the end of December, we had a nice Christmas day with our friends. Marie Therese had her father and niece to dinner also. It was a noon time meal, and we had wonderful food (boar or in French sanglier), great wine and wonderful friends. It was a special day and we ate and drank and talked the afternoon away. I think Keith and I finally left around 7:30 or 8 pm.

    The next morning the world was covered with a sheet of ice, thick ice. No one could move. No cars, no buses, everything was quiet. Keith crashed (but did not burn) going out to get the newspaper (which of course was not there). The sand truck did not come around until about 10:30am and slowly the neighborhood started to come alive as the sand/salt did its job, and the day warmed up a little at the same time. The paper was finally delivered after lunch.

    On Thursday (Dec 27th) the day was warmer and the ice had melted, so my northern climate survival skills kicked-in (just in case there was another day or two with ice). I headed out to the grocer and bought food for several days (along with some canned goods just in case) and many bottles of wine (about 10). I ran into a friend in the parking lot, and she looked at my basket (chariot) and all the wine and asked if we were having a party! I had to say, “Well no, it is just in case it is icy again and I can’t get out”!! [we did in fact have another bad day on Jan 3rd and I was prepared].

    New Years Day was quiet, as was New Years Eve. Because the weather had been cold (hey it was below freezing), and we had had rain and ice, we just stayed home(much safer that way).

    Does anyone remember Epiphany, January 6th ? Here in France, it is the Fete de Roi (festival of the king). It is celebrated with a Galette de Roi. This is a layered puff pastry filled with frangipane. Inside there is a small feve (small figurine in porcelain) hidden in the frangipane and who ever finds the feve, wears the paper crown! I had Galatte with the genealogy club, with the photo club, and we had it at home (we had a guest for dinner). At the clubs it is served with Cremant (sparkling wine), at our house it was our dessert.

    Then there was a barn “raising” this month. Not in the old fashion American sense, but a barn raising none the less. In a small village not far from Gevrey, Marie Therese has a friend who boards horses. Christophe has decided to expand his business, and was having a company from England, construct a new horse stable for him. It is pre-built, delivered and then built on site. We went over for the afternoon, I took photos of the barn, of Christophe working with the horse of Justine, and then he had a work out with Ohtar (Marie Therese’s horse- Marie Therese moved Ohtar to board at Christophe's last spring). By the time Christophe was jumping with Ohtar, it was almost dark and it had started to rain. I did get a photo of Ohtar and Christophe just before the rain started (having a cigarette break).

    BARN OHTAR

    St. Vincent is the patron saint of the vineyards. Each year there is a large celebration that consists first of a parade (defile), mass and blessing, aperitifs and a large dinner. There is also street entertainment and wine tasting at the wine makers establishments. The big celebration will be Jan 26th-27th.

    A village is picked to host this big celebration. This year it is in the very small village of St Romain (and where will they park since this small village is nestled in the cliffs). This village is a little south west of Gevrey. There is great wine from St. Romain, both red and white.

    The main dinner this year is 130 euros per person!! We are not going.

    However we did go to the celebration in the Hautes Cotes. This year St Vincent was celebrated in Arcenant on Jan 19. We had a wonderful dinner starting with the entre, then a fish course, followed by a main course, a trou de Bourgogne (palate cleanser made of sorbet and liqueur-marc de Bourgogne), cheese course and dessert. Before your belt breaks, it starts at about 1pm and dessert was at about 5:30pm and the servings are NOT super sized. Nice wines accompanied each course. There is always a band that plays too, and it was as terrible as it was last year! Imagine a cha-cha-cha on an accordion!! In spite of that, a good time was had by all. We left at about 11:30pm…. yawn, a long day.

    Keith Keith and Wine

    I did some yard work today (Jan 22,2008). I found the bulbs in the garden already poking out, one of my roses has leaf buds, the forsythia has buds and lo and behold, a primrose. Have to say that after all those years in Minnesota, I really like the climate here. It is a little early, so I do expect we still have some winter days ahead. But profit from the moment (that is an expression used a lot here in France…” Profiter du soleil ” – translates as “take advantage of the sun”- ).

    I made a birdbath with mosaic, and now have to start another.

    Keith has been working on the kitchen cupboards, a door here - a door there. They really look so much nicer. After all the doors and drawers are completed, he will think about making the actual cabinets too. I will take a photo after a few more doors are completed so one can get a better impression.

    He continues to work on repairing trains at Bligny. They (well they actually had some professionals do this part) added the track all the way to Pont d’Ouche, and the plan is that he will be build a waiting shelter this spring at the Pont d’Ouche site. The track now extends from Bligny to Pont d’Ouche, and is near 8km long.

    That is about all of the real excitement here in Gervey (hey it is winter).

    For a recipe this month I have turned to the winter vegetable, chicory or as it is called here, endive. This is a wonderful salad with greens that one can enjoy in the winter.

    Before I add my recipe here I have to add a comment about Roquefort. When I came to France, I said I did not like blue cheese. Ah, then I tasted Roquefort (in this very salad served at dinner at friends house). It is different than any blue cheese I had tasted in the states. So now I am hooked and eat it willing. Every tried it with pears! um

    Endive Salad

  • 2 meduim endives
  • ½ cup or about 2-3 oz. Roquefort Cheese
  • Vinegarette [see below]
  • 1/4 cupWalnuts broken in pieces
  • Cut the endives in half and I usually take out the core. Then slice in half circles, about ¼ inch wide.

    Prepare a vinegarette

  • 3 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 small garlic clove minced
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
  • 1 Tbs fresh lemon juice (sometimes I use a white wine vinegar)
  • Blend oil and mustard together. Keep whipping it with a fork until the mustard blends in completely. Add other ingredients and mix well.

    Pour the Vinegarette over the sliced endive and mix well. Add the Roquefort and walnuts on top and serve.

    Bon Appétit

    Thursday, December 20, 2007

    December 2007

    December 15, 2007

    Happy Holidays Joyeux Noël

    Christmas approaches, each day passing faster than the last. It is amazing why this holiday appears to sneak up on us, since the commercial places have been telling us about it since the end of October. Maybe since the decorations and advertisements start so early now (even here in France), we get immune and try to ignore the whole thing.

    The American Christmas has slowly come to France. Houses now put up outside lights, even to the extent of some of the American houses (remember Chevy Chase and the Griswolds). Some villages now have house decoration contest. The crèche used to be and still is the preferred decoration in France, usually indoors. However those ambitious outdoor decorators have placed the crèche and Pere Noël together.

    Maybe it is the lack of snow too that throws me completely off. From my Minnesota roots, Christmas meant snow on the ground. Up until this week we have had rather warm weather (high 40’s to low 50’s). The grass is still green; a rose bud is still trying to open. The sun is out now, but the temperatures are colder this week. The birdbath had some ice on it this morning. Will Mrs. Merle (european blackbird related to the american robin) try to take her bath today?, probably not.

    I am going into Dijon today with Marie Therese. We are going to see the decorations and the Marché de Noël (Christmas Market). Have to see if I find anything.

    December 20th

    We went into Dijon on Saturday and I have never seen so many people on the streets of Dijon. It was one mass crowd of people. INCREDIBLE. Looking down the long stretch of Rue de Liberty, it was a carpet of moving people. The street was closed to motor traffic, so the sidewalks and street were completely covered with people! At the end of Rue Liberty, on the Place de Liberty, in front of the Ducal Palace, the Marché de Noël has been set up. There were a couple of booths that sold Russian things (amber jewelry, dolls, scarves...), a person who sold hand made knives, candles, food, pillows, silk scarves, Christmas ornaments, perfume, Santons (traditional crèche characters, animals from Province),and the list of things to sell within the booths goes on.

    Christmas Stalls

    Ducal Palace


    At this time of year there are carolers walking around downtown singing. This year they are in red costumes. They do get your attention when walking down the street. Everything is decorated in the holiday spirit in town center: stores have put up decorations, and the city has gone all out too- there are green trees or flocked trees on the sidewalks and hanging lights all around and the atmosphere is truly festive. However, for me the crowds made it a little too much. I went back on a weekday and it was much, much better.


    This week has been cold, very cold. Almost Minnesota cold, well not quite. It has been down to 20 degrees. The last two days we have had a very heavy frost, so although we have not had snow, everything is very white.

    You look out and see the fog and the wonderful transformation of the vineyards covered with frost. Magical to see. I stand at the window and gaze out. No wind, so it is very quiet. Ah no snow, but alas a White Christmas after all.

    Last Friday night we went to a chorale concert. It was the group I used to sing with, when I sang. It was a very good concert, and we enjoyed it completely. Pam had added "Jingle Bells", in english and a very fun arrangement. And of course, lots of old traditional songs, some in french and some in english. We were in the small church of Noiron-sous-Gevrey, it was a little cold, although the church did have heat! Those old stone churches do not heat up easily. We were invited to sing along to White Christmas (Noel Blanche), however it was in french.

    We will be going over to our good friends for Christmas dinner, Marie Therese and her family. It will be a nice Christmas afternoon with fine wine, good food and close friends.

    I will end here to today, more to write but I will save it for January or I will never get this out on the web.

    Recipe this month

    Vin Chaud (mulled wine)

    INGREDIENTS

  • 1 (750 milliliter) bottle dry red wine (vin rouge sec)

  • 1/2 cup white sugar (or honey)..add to your taste (sucre ou miel)

  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (cannelle moulin)

  • 1 orange cut into slices (orange coupées en rondelles)

  • 1 lemon cut into slices (citron coupées en rondelles)

  • 6 whole cloves (girofles)

  • 4 cinnamon sticks (batons de cannelle)

  • DIRECTIONS

    In a large saucepan on medium-low heat, combine wine, sugar and cinnamon and fruit. Heat on low heat for about 20 minutes or so until steaming. Careful not to let it boil. Good idea to warm your glasses with warm water before serving.

    Saturday, November 24, 2007

    Novembre 2007

    November 2007

    Where should I start?

    I have to warn you that this month is about food and drink!

    Why not start at the very end of October, Halloween. It is not celebrated much here, and it seems less and less so each year. However, the children know the house of the “Americans”. Children that I have never seen before arrive at our door and in their best English say hello or even a few say “Trick or Treat”. And then they say Good Bye or Happy Halloween as they walk away. 

     November 1st is Toussaint (All Saints Day) and is a holiday here (I know that France has a separation of church and state too, but they did not give up these holidays, oh no, it is a day off work, so the logical step was taken and it remained a holiday). It is also the French equivalent of the American Memorial day. Mums are bought and placed on graves in cemeteries all over France. The mums they sell at this time of year are gorgeous. As I understand it, mums are for the cemetery and for gardens and for decoration. But one does not buy mums as a hostess present.

     As November came in, so did the gray and foggy days. We get days with fog days with mist or out and out rainy days. Oh where is that sun anyway! We have not done much in the garden yet due to the weather. The roses are still trying to bud, even after a rather cold week. Along with the change in the weather, one benefit is the tourists have practically disappeared. So the region is returned to those of us who actually live here. A certain "quiet time" has returned. 

    I had given you warning last month of the “Foire Internationale et Gastronomique de Dijon”. We went on a Tuesday around noon, and it was practically impossible to find a parking place. The first few parking lots were completely full. Where do all these people come from on a working day?

    Once inside, there are booths selling pate, cheese, wine, caviar, cookies, chocolate, champagne, sausages, bread, candies….and the list of vendors goes on. Then there are restaurants set-up between all of these booths. Restaurants that serve food from all over the world, but most are restaurants from the different regions of France. Of course it is made for the French palate (as we were assured by the hawker for the Indian restaurant), which means not spicy. Hot food is not part of the French cuisine. However, having said that, they do use peppers in the Pyrenees Basque region (mountains between France and Spain). 

    We looked at a few booths as we entered but Keith was starving. So we sat a Camargue restaurant and had taureau (the Camargue is a region in the south of France and on the Mediterranean Sea. Taureau is bull). 

    There were things on display other than food. I bought a ravioli press. You put the pasta on it, put a spoon full of filling in the indent and close, VIOLA, raviolis. Have not tried it yet. But there were booths and demonstrations for pots, pans, and of course even here in France -“it slices and dices”, and many other gadgets for the kitchen.

     I have included a few photos of the Foire (festival)

    BAR Cavier
    Restaurant Sausage anyone?
    Alsacian Restaurant ESCARGOT?

    Since this month seemed to center around food, I have to comment on the French cuisine. I now buy groceries every day (except Sunday when stores are closed). Fresh has taken on a different concept. You start to flow more with what is in season. This summer I got excited by some melons I saw at the market. It was early, and it was from Africa (food is marked where it comes from). I bought one! It was too early and there was no taste. One has to wait until the French melons come out and oh la la, what flavor. Live and learn.

    It is now fall and of course apples are in season. I took some apples that I had from our friends'trees and cut them up, added a little sugar, a little white wine and a sprig of thyme. What a delightful dessert.

    We do get hot house tomatoes and beans all winter, and those do not have much flavor. I much prefer my garden vegetables or those vegetables (legumes) directly from the Cote-d’Or. Fresh beets (betterave) are in season now and there is so much more flavor in a fresh beet then in canned beets! So my shopping and cooking habits have definitely changed. OK, I have to add that although buying vegetables (les legumes) as fresh as possible I do not mean to imply that I am now a health freak. The cuisine of this region is laced with butter, cream, and cheese. Oh well!! Maybe I will slowly change some of that too, one never knows.

     I went with Marie Therese to Nuits St. Georges for “Fete de Vin Bourru” . Bourru is the wine from the first fermentation. It still is somewhat like grape juice, but with a kick. We tasted the bourru and of course made the rounds and tasted some other wines. I bought some cheese from the Pyrenees. Nibble –drink, nibble-drink. Now you must remember that Marie Therese’s business is selling wine, so it is necessary to taste and find new wines. This was strictly business.

     This last weekend, I again joined up with Marie Therese and we went to Beaune

    It was the weekend of the Hospice de Beaune auction. I had never gone before. I thought that it was mainly about the wine auction. No, it is a whole weekend of festivities. There were booths everywhere selling food and wine. We watched a contest with 5 women. The prize went to the first person to uncork 20 bottles of wine (I think it was water actually- who would waste good wine on a contest). There were bands too and a parade (défilé).


    CONTEST

    Hmmm..but what are they?

     Unfortunately, we went to the place for wine tasting and the line was very long (maybe 100 people ahead of us) and they only let in people when others exited. So we had to pass on the wine tasting. Again I must note that this was a trip for business reasons only! 

    I prepared a small Thanksgiving this year. I ordered the turkey 10 days in advanced. I ordered about 5 kilos (11 pounds) fermier (farm raised, not industrial). I ended up with 2 small turkeys (about 6 pounds each). They have the big turkey factories here too; turkey is a Christmas tradition. But the fermier turkeys are not raised to the extra large sizes. So I had the 2 small ones. I cooked both (really too much turkey) and the taste was wonderful. I will continue ordering small fermier turkeys in the future.

    I did a traditional mid-west Thanksgiving. There were 5 of us for dinner. I made turkey, mashed potatoes, wild rice casserole hot dish to Minnesotans), sweet potatoes (patate douce) without marshmallows, cranberry sauce (pinot noir cranberry sauce) and pumpkin and pecan pie. Guests arrived at about 12:30 and left about 6:30pm. There was no football, so we sat and ate and talked at the table the whole afternoon. I had stated that I would take pictures, but I was serving food, and talking and forgot the pictures! Mr. Turkey was good looking, you will just have to believe me.

     Now we start the season of Marché de Noel (Christmas market). A few years ago I had gone to the one in Strasbourg when Keith had a meeting there. Since this area has a strong German influence, the Marché de Noel is very large. Here in Dijon it has gotten smaller each year. I am not sure what they will have this year, but I will go and check it out.

     Since the weather has changed and it is a bit nippy, I will add the recipe for Beef Burgundy (Boeuf Bourgogne). I have to admit that I just throw this together, so I went out and found a similar recipe on the net and then made the changes that were more to my taste (I think I use more wine than any recipe on the net). I did this to get some idea of the measurements, since I do not use any. Remember you can flavor to your taste.

     Boeuf Bourgogne (Beef Burgundy)

     A great rich dish to serve on winter nights. This dish does not take long to prepare, but cooking it slow makes all the flavors blend together to form a wonderful sauce. You have to think that a peasant woman put this dish together long ago. She would throw everything into the pot, probably swing it over the fireplace coals and then continue with her chores. 

    20 minutes preparation 3 1/2 hours cooking 

  • 3 slices smoked bacon or about 6-7 ounces, (buy the extra thick slices of bacon and cut into match stick)
  • 1 lb boneless of beef cubes , cut into 2-3 inch squares
  • 2 TBS of olive oil (as needed)
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
  • 12 ounces mushrooms, thick sliced
  • 4 carrots cut in large sections (3 inches long)
  • 4-6 potatoes cut into quarters
  • 1 beef broth cube
  • 1 bottle of red wine, such as pinot noir or cabernet sauvignon (should be the same grape variety that you will drink with the dinner- I do not feel that a superior wine is needed for cooking, but it should be drinkable wine)
  • 1 large or 2 small yellow onions cut into large pieces
  • 3 or 4 sprigs of fresh thyme ( or 2 teaspoons dried thyme)
  • 1 to 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 tablespoon of flour
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 2 tsp Worchester sauce

  • 1. Cook bacon in a heavy 4 qrt Dutch oven (or large pan with cover that is ovenproof- top should be tight fitting to minimize the loss of moisture)  

    2. Transfer bacon with slotted spoon to a medium bowl; set aside.  

    3. Add oil to the pan as needed. Brown meat with garlic, transferring it to the bowl  

    4. Sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper.  

    5. Add mushrooms to drippings in pan; cook 3- 4 minutes or until mushrooms are browned, stirring frequently. 
    6. Transfer mushrooms to the bowl with bacon and meat.  

    7. Return contents of the bowl with all the juices to pan; add onions, broth cube, ¾ of the bottle of wine, and thyme, bay leaves and rosemary. Stir in tomato paste. Meat should be covered completely. If not add some water to cover. 

    8. Add Worchester sauce 

    9. Add one of the carrots ( the carrot will add flavor to the sauce) 

    10. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to low.  

    11. Cover; simmer 15 minutes.  

    12. Put in the oven at 300 degrees for 3 hours (should smell the herbs as they cook) –a slow cooker would work too. Maybe cook 5-6 hours in the slow cooker, I do not use one so not sure of the time 

    13. Check every hour to be sure meat is covered. Add the rest of the wine and then water as needed. 

    14. After 2 hours, add the rest of the carrots and potatoes 

    15. Return to oven for another hour 

    16. Combine flour and butter, mixing until smooth.  

    17. Stir into meat mixture to thicken the sauce.  

    18. Return to the oven for the last ½ hour.  

    19. Remove thyme sprigs, rosemary and bay leaves.  

    The main note for this dish is to cook slow. The flavors mix together and the meat becomes tender. The fat from the oil and bacon help keep the meat from drying out as it cooks, so do not cut out these ingredients. Boeuf bourgogne may be made 1 day ahead (up to #14). Add the carrots and potatoes when you put it in the oven the next day. Cool, uncovered, then chill, covered (it tastes even better made ahead because it gives the flavors time to develop). I do not use a recipe when making this dish, so it varies time to time.